Tokyo

## The World's Greatest Food City Tokyo holds more Michelin stars than any other city on Earth. But the real magic isn't just in the starred restaurants—it's in the obsessive pursuit of perfection that permeates every level of the city's food culture. The ramen shop owner who has spent thirty years perfecting a single broth. The sushi master who trained for a decade before being allowed to prepare fish for customers. The tempura chef who knows exactly how many seconds each vegetable needs in the oil. This is a city where specialization is celebrated, where restaurants often serve just one thing—and do it better than anywhere else in the world. ## Understanding Tokyo's Food Landscape ### Depachika: Department Store Basements Start your Tokyo food education in the basement food halls (depachika) of major department stores. Places like Isetan, Mitsukoshi, and Takashimaya offer a dizzying array of prepared foods, sweets, and ingredients that serve as a crash course in Japanese cuisine. Sample wagashi (traditional sweets), marvel at the precision of bento boxes, and observe the Japanese approach to food presentation. ### Yokocho: Alley Drinking Culture Tokyo's yokocho (alley streets) offer an entirely different experience. These narrow lanes lined with tiny bars and restaurants—some seating just six or eight people—are where Tokyo's salary workers unwind. Yurakucho, Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane), and Ebisu's Yokocho are essential experiences. Order beer or sake, point at what looks good on the grill, and embrace the controlled chaos. ### Kissaten: Coffee Culture Before third-wave coffee, Tokyo had kissaten—traditional coffee houses where beans are roasted on-site and coffee is prepared with meticulous care. These atmospheric spaces, often unchanged for decades, offer a window into Japan's long love affair with coffee culture. ## Essential Tokyo Dishes ### Sushi Tokyo is the birthplace of Edomae sushi—the nigiri style that has conquered the world. At the high end, omakase counters offer multi-course experiences where the chef selects each piece based on what's best that day. But excellent sushi exists at every price point, from standing-only counters in train stations to legendary spots in Ginza. ### Ramen Tokyo's ramen culture is endlessly diverse. Shoyu (soy sauce) and shio (salt) broths dominate in the traditional style, but you'll also find rich, pork-bone tonkotsu, fish-based broths, and creative modern interpretations. Each neighborhood has its heroes—Fuunji in Shinjuku for tsukemen, Rokurinsha in Tokyo Station for dipping noodles, Afuri for yuzu-inflected broth. ### Tempura Proper tempura is nothing like the heavy, greasy versions found abroad. At Tokyo's best tempura-ya, each piece emerges from the oil impossibly light, the batter barely there, the ingredient inside perfectly cooked. Counter seating lets you watch the master work and eat each piece at its optimal moment. ### Yakitori Chicken skewers grilled over binchōtan charcoal might sound simple, but Tokyo's yakitori masters elevate the humble format to art. Every part of the bird is used, from standard cuts to liver, heart, and cartilage. The best yakitori-ya grill over binchōtan charcoal, which burns hot and clean. ## Neighborhood Food Guides ### Tsukiji Outer Market Even after the wholesale market moved to Toyosu, Tsukiji's outer market remains a food lover's paradise. Come early for the freshest sushi, wander the stalls for tamagoyaki (sweet omelet), dried fish, and kitchen tools, and absorb the energy of Tokyo's original food hub. ### Shibuya & Harajuku Young, trendy, and constantly evolving, these neighborhoods offer Tokyo's cutting edge. Instagram-worthy sweets, creative fusion restaurants, and Japan's take on international cuisines all thrive here. ### Ginza Tokyo's upscale dining district is home to many of the city's most celebrated restaurants. This is where to experience high-end sushi, tempura, and kaiseki in refined settings. ## Practical Tips Reservations are essential at popular restaurants—sometimes weeks in advance for the most sought-after spots. Consider using a hotel concierge or reservation service for places that don't take bookings from foreign numbers. Learn a few key phrases, or use translation apps—many smaller places don't have English menus. And remember: in Tokyo, cash is still king, especially at smaller establishments.